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1. THE RED FORT DELHI Nestled in Delhi’s clamorous heart, the Red Fort’s tremendous scale and soaring sandstone walls imbue it with visual splendour. Built under Shah Jahan and considered the apex of Mughal architecture and design, this UNESCO World Heritage Site now contains a...

GOING TO BED CEREMONY, MEENAKSHI TEMPLE The psychedelic towers of Meenakshi Temple make this one of the most vivid attractions in south India. Appreciating the fine detail of its rainbow-painted stucco gopurams in full daylight is a must, however the temple is best visited after...

SHOP FOR SILKS Varanasi’s artisans are famous for their rich silk brocades. Head to the Muslim quarter, whose narrow lanes are lined with stalls selling reams of gilded, jewelled colours. Many of the fabrics are produced here, and silk stalls are interspersed with tiny tailors’...

SOUTH GOA Among the best beaches in Goa is Agonda. This serene stretch is serviced by a row of charming beach huts and little else. The shoals of hawkers that patrol many of Goa’s beaches are notably lacking here, so you can roll out a sarong or stroll along the lip of the...

URBAN HOTELS IN INDIA 1. THE TAJ MAHAL PALACE, MUMBAI There’s more than one Taj Mahal in India. Glamorous Mumbai is home to The Taj Mahal Palace, one of the best luxury hotels in India, whose opulence challenges that of Mumtaz’s original. Having hosted kings, presidents and...

PUSHKAR Although it rose to guidebook fame for its loud and colourful camel fairs every autumn, Pushkaris more important among pilgrims for its ghats, which step down into the holy waters of the tranquil Pushkar Lake. A must-visit on any  spend a few moments soaking up the...

A MINI NOTEPAD Not just visually stunning, the Subcontinent is a trove of inspiration and wisdom. Whether it’s poetry inspired by the landscape, snippets of overheard conversations, or precious moments of enlightenment, every person and place in this land inspires. Take along a...

They say that every city has a signature sound.   If that’s the case then for Marrakech, for me, its sound is simply the muezzin. I don’t mean like any other middle eastern city though. I mean the surrounding buzz of dozens of mosques packed into the maze-like medina,...

How to Travel to Iran for Americans, British and Canadians – Updated for 2019 Written originally in 2017, this post is updated for travel to Iran in 2019. If you have corrections to make or experiences to share, and especially if you have experienced American travel to Iran – we...

A Guide to Responsible Travel in Amsterdam. As someone who lived and worked in Amsterdam for nearly seven years, it seems ironic that the first time I write about sustainable travel in Amsterdam – or about Amsterdam at all for that matter – is after I have left. Despite having...